The Velvet Path

I was up early - in time to go with Gelur to catch the school "dolmush" and then walk to the other side of the valley to watch the sun gradually illuminate the village.

I wandered through some village lanes and wondered at the lives these people must have relying on relatively basic technology.

Back at Ahmeds house I stood with him on the terrace and looking out over his village with a bright blue day beginning we agreed that it was beautiful.

After breakfast it was back on the Lycian Way (Lykia Yolu) again stsrting with a gentle climb on an "old" road. Butressed by a wall on one side and wide enough for a tractor it seemed nevertheless rarely used, except perhaps, judging by the close cropped grass, for grazing sheep or goats. It was blissfull underfoot - the perfect way to start a day of serious walking.

We climbed gently, soon entering paths across upland "yaylas" and into pine woodland. The red and white waymarks were ever-present and we took care to add a stone to the occasional marker cairns where possible.

Soon we were shadowing the coast, though some 700m higher, working our way roubd headlands and valleys en route to the coastal village of Guvaragili (Goov-rally). The most demanding part was crossing and descending a broad slope composed if large smooth panels of rock with just a few fissures and occasional trees providing footing and shade respectively.

Though it was sunny a constant sea-breeze kept us cool and the sight of turquoise waters near the shore and the extensive sandy beach at Patara kept up our enthusiasm.

There were sightings of tortoise (koplunbagi) snake, a squirrel and tuneful birdcall one of the few sounds above the sighing of the wind. One exciting find was a single quill from a porcupine! I was so excited with this evidence of the recent presence of this rare creature.

A dog barked as I approached the first house in G. Beside the gates of a house and garden stood a smiling young woman. "From Bel?" she asked. It soon became clear that here was our pension for the night - and thrre were our bags safely delivered from Ahmeds place as promised; another miraculous link in the chain had been deftly forged.