I have devoted the day to exploring the vast and complex site that is Olympos. It straddles a gorge at the mouth of the river Göcsu (Skywater) and seems tho have been settled since before the Lycians, Greeks, Romans and Genoese who followed.
My first foray was to the south bank of the river, crossing it on stepping stones where it was broad and shallow. The final "stone" was in fact a tortoise was lapping water! Here the hillside was used as a necropolis and successive cultures have built tombs onto the hillside, some by creating small barrel-vaulted chambers. A number of these must have been built within a small time-frame as they are of almost identical pattern including a very natty feature - a sliding panel door consisting of one slab of rock. There are a few 'terraces' of these; building them side by side by side would give mutual support to the outward thrust of the arches.
These seem to be of the earlier era of occupation of the site as a city. There are larger tombs - perhaps for more notable figures or families. It was sobering to see the rate of decay of some of the finer features of one of these; an area of text had been undercut by water infiltration and the whole surface could have been rubbed away by a sweep of the hand. No doubt it will, sooner or later, since the site is overgrown and there is no cordoning off for protection.
Later tombs were in the Lycian style - a sarcophagus set on a plinth with an ornate lid. At least one lid of the 'saddle-back' pattern, like those at Aperlae and Kekova, and of a huge size lay upturned like a rather crude and heavy life-boat. Other tombs, of a later Hellenistic period have a lid of trapezoid shape and fascinating ornament. One known as Alkestis Tomb is animated by carved ornament on all external surfaces. The carving depicts the occupant and his wife, the gods Nike and Eros , Heracles and Alkestis, sea-creatures, garlands and putti (little fat angels). Even the roof is sculpted to resemble scales or shingles.
Near the necropolis are magnificent walls made of polygonal stones fitted neatly together. These were
Greek but after Roman conquest used as foundations for their own building.
The next feature on the south bank is the Theatre. It is no coincidence that this exists cheek by jowl with the necropolis; in ancient times the theatre served a religious function. Still recognisable as a semicircular amphitheatre it is nevertheless in a sorry state as the result of two major earthquakes. These may also account for the lack of adequate depth for mooring in the river which once served as a port. Shrubs and fully grown trees abound on this site and there is a great sense of adventure in 'discovering' the main features.
The next major building, with substantial walls still remaining is from the Roman period. It is interesting that a city constantly defending itself against pirates and raiders should consider a bath-house essential. Perhaps they hoped to frighten their assailants away with their impeccable hygeine! This one was a two-storey affair with an extensive ground-plan. Among the ruins here I spotted a number of lizards but failed to successfully photograph any . They are usually aware of me before I am of them and only see them because the are making a hasty retreat. While walking along a shore-side path I almost set foot on a small snake. It must have heard my approach and darted across the path to the safety of a patch of grass. It's not a place to explore wearing sandals.
I returned to the north bank where the remains are far more extensive, more intact and well described. While I enjoyed making my way down this bank, and found one or two features impressive (the great Roman Temple wall doorway, the riverside granaries and warehouses), it seemed a bit tame after my jungle exploits. Though excavation is in progress lafge quantities of dressed and carved stones litter the site. Massive stones with carving for bases of columns hint at the scale of ambition and prestige that this, one of many cities in this region must have had. If I'd had an audience I'd have quoted lines from "Osymandias", if I knew them.
I found two final tombs on the north bank interesting. One depicts a galley-type vessel and is inscribed with an epitaph whose translation appeared on an information board. The metaphor of the seaman and the vessel finding their final resting place ("The ship is anchored at its last harbour..") was very apt since this was the grave of a captain, and the lines "(the ship)..its lifespan short as a day, like a broken wave." very moving.
I walked out from the mouth of the river onto the great sweep of Çirali beach. I missed the short cut to the 'village' (3 small tourist supermarkets and a string of restaurant/cafés, hotels and pensions) but taking the long way round (including having to wade a shallow stretch of water) gave me a glimpse of some shapely boat hulls, and the aqueduct system that once served the village, now defunct. Finding the village I have now recce'd the start of tomorrow's hike - to the lands of the Chimaera and to Ulupinar beyond.
What an exciting venture into history……..well done on doing the walking and writing about it as well! x
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