Leg 3, Day 1 - Starters

From Ulupinar to Beyçik

The day started well, I woke extra early and had time for a stroll down to a terrace overlooking the harbour and more significantly across the sea towards the region that I will be walking. Even at this early hour Tahtali Day (Turkey's mount Olympos) was sporting a little wreath of cloud. I had read that those wishing to visit the summit should do so early in the morning as it is then most likely to be clear. This lingering wisp of cloud may have been a clue to conditions on the pass immediately behind that I am due to be walking over today.
I had my boots professionally waxed by Mehmet, and after another circuit of the Mosque with the Broken Minaret I headed back for breakfast. I left the Camel with directions to the Otogar (bus station) but I never actually found it! Asking again en route I was advised to catch a town bus that would connect with one heading south. This worked out fine and I was soon speeding towards Kemer, from where I would need to catch a dolmush ("sardine bus") to Ulupinar.
At Kemer I had my first taster of walking with my backpack, from town centre back to the highway where I would catch the dolmush. This was now under the midday sun and I discovered that 1. the hat that I found for this trip, a faded army surplus camouflage bush-hat, that felt too smal when I tried it on, that felt too big after I had washed and dried it stretched over a padded pudding basin, now fitted perfectly! and 2. (rediscovered actually) just how much water leaves the body while exercising. By this afternoon I had got back into the whole wet shirt thing, almost oblivious of the chill to the kidneys from a cold damp shirt when hitching up my rucksack after a cooling off break.
I waited almost an hour for the dolmush! Standing beside a dusty road, just beyond some road works; they are elevating a stretch of the highway and a series of monolithic concrete arches, with toothed upper edges marched away towards Antalya. Finally the bus arrived and I thankfully took the last available seat on a packed minibus. It was not long before it stopped to pick up more passengers. My rucksack had to go in the boot, the co-driver gave up his seat to a mother and child and I gave up mine to an elegant young lady in a headscarf and beige floor-length trench-coat. All three were promptly issued with plastic bags on the assumption that motion-sickness, which seems almost seems compulsory for Turkish women, would soon set in. I meanwhile perched on a little folding stool in the gangway, procured specifically for such a contingency.
I enjoyed what little I could see of the passing countryside and soon we arrived at Ulupinar. The main village, with its famous fish-farms and restaurants is off the main highway to the East. I was looking for the Lycian Way striking off to the NorthWest and soon found it - a tarmac'd (grade 5) road that climbed steadily the hillside West of the highway. I enjoyed the sight of pomegarnate orchards, the new leaves a bright bronze/amber, contrasting with the few blackened "forgotten" fruits from last year.
It was nor long before I was climbing a rougher track through olive terraces (though with few mature trees - they seem to be replacing some with wanut, their trunks stained a strange blue colour - a copper based treatment perhaps). Later montane landscape ensued, the trail reduced from a track to a barely discernable path, under pine forest or weaving between rocks and shrubs on the more exposed stretches.
I enjoyed the familiar sight of wild flowers and with half an hours walk had seen plenty of the typical euphorbias with their lime green-to-orange mop heads, asphodels, purple field orchids, an a few lone irises. I saw few notable birds but heard woodpeckers calling, the squeal of an eagle or hawk and (last night) a very persistent owl.
As far as animal life is concerned so far sightings have included only goats. Not a single kaplumbagi (tortoise). It became much cooler throughout the day and perhaps at this altitude they are still hibernating. Now at 800m and overcast it is seriously chilly. Inside the guest house yesterday evening I could see my breath!
Glimpses of Tahtali Day showed it to be well dressed with snow. Knowing that I would not be attempting the summit but using a pass to the West to cross over into the plateau of Kuzdere and the village of Kuzdere Yayla, the snow did not strike me as of any concern other than