Leg 3, Day 5 - Flaming Pirates and a Paradise Garden

Well, I have arrived somewhere special again! So special I can't even tWorkshop cwhere it is because the people who stay here don't want it spoiled. Me too as I may well be back. What? I've only been here five minutes!

It's been an interesting day. My phone alarm didn't wake me at 7 as planned, nor was there a muezzin morning call to prayer from the super-mosque across the road (don't ask me why) but I woke naturally at 8.

I had to attend to some clothes, washed last night but not yet dry as it had rained on the clothesline! I draped things over chairs on a small balcony in strong sun and went in search of breakfast. When I came back I wrote and posted yesterday's blog in the Motel foyer (the wi fi zone) and thought about my plans for the day.

I decided that a bus to Roman bridge and the walk from there to Tekirova might be pushed for time (it is rated at 6 hrs 15min but I find these do not take account of any non-walk time - stopping for refreshment, food, to look at the view etc.) and it was already 11 am. Plan B became more attractive; to have "day out" visiting Phaselis, staying the night at Çamyuva, a handy starting point for a bus to Roman Bridge tomorrow.

So I packed, paid my bill and headed for the bus stop. It wasn't long before a "midi-bus" came along and my request for Çanyuva/Tekirova seemed to cut the mustard. However a passenger asked me if was going to the Telerific. Fortunately I knew what this was; there is a cable car to a restaurant/viewpoint at the top of Tahtali Day. I've known about it since 1987 - it is actually visible through binoculars from Antalya! I had considered taking the trip since planning this visit - climbing the peak during the winter months is definitely not an option - and I was all the more keen on the idea since championing the pass (in my reckless demented fashion) on Tuesday. So I asked to be dropped off at the Teleferic.

Before I got there I realised that this was not a good day to ascend beyond about 800metres as the cloudbase was at about that level. Scientist might be interested in what happens to the brain when confronted with an impenetrable white mist but I was not about to pay the ticket price to conduct my own research! I took the opportunity to gather information and got directions for continuing on foot down to Phaselis.

Here's a crammers guide to Phaselis;

Settled since the 7th century BC on the fringes of the Lycian domain

according to legend, bought by Rhodian collonists from the (Lycian) inhabitants for a quantity of dried fish.

prospered from marine trade but had a bad reputaion for ruthlessly pursuing debt whilst being lax about their own.

sided with the Persians in 545BC but..

in 460BC forced to pay a high tax to the Athens- Delian League when events turned in their favour
(that this tax was on a par with cities like Ephesus shows how wealthy Phaselis had become).

sided with Mausolus (Persian/Carian) against the Greeks.

welcomed Alexander inviting him and his campaign to over-winter in the city.

fell under Ptolomaic control - cult of Isis is seen in the lotus flower depicted on coinage of this period.

78BC under control of pirate king Zenecites of Olympos; on his defeat sold to settlers of Lycian League

42BC brought under Roman Empire and flourished

AD 650 near destroyed by Arab raids

7-8th C AD became a harbour of the Byzantine Empire

13th C AD conquered by Sejuk armies of Sultan Alaadin Keykubat but neglected, deserted, harbour silted up becomes marsh

Though the sea has destroyed part of the necropolis and harbour the amazing thing is the remarkable state of preservation of the paved roads and squares, the amphitheatre, agoras and bathhouses and the massive arched aqueduct that supplied them. I got much information from a booklet by archaeologist Lakan Atila, but the translation had me in stitches. It could have been a Stanley Unwin script. Examples;

(The Phaselians) "had a bad reputation in the antic world due to their ruse and dishonesty"

" important exportation products... the rose oil very solicited in the market."

About Alexander; "(he) touched the lance (of Achilles) with great excitement. And then later he scarified animals in the temple of Herades. After a delicious diner, and little drunken (he threw crowns toward the staue of Theodectus).. That showed that he respected a lot the philosophy"

(Of the overthrow of Zencetes) "Publius Servilius Latia burnt the leader of the pirates who was Zenecetes with the castle of Olympos..  he captured then Phaselis and took pirated of the whole region out."

As I read this in the picnic area a gaggle of pirate ducks moved in to take revenge on behalf of Zenecetes and gobble crisp packet the whole region out!

Having walked through over and under all the wonderful ruins, admiring the carving work on scattered stone and reflecting on the demise of once prosperous settlements I emerged on the opposite shore of the peninsula. Checking my GPS map I could see that the Lycian Way path ran around two bays and over a headland to link with a road leading into Tekirova. I began to follow this route, made all the more interesting by a section rounding a rocky headland using rocks on the shore as stepping stones. Between them were dozens of empty shells of molluscs. They were spiralled, elongated and and faintly pink hued - unlike any I have seen on British shores. I could not resist picking up a few handfuls as souvenirs. Perhaps when I get home I can stick them all over a bottle to make a novel and attractive table lamp base..

At the other end of the next bay I could see a bridge over a stream. Crossing the bridge I saw what looked like a tea-house or bar and was hopeful of a çay stop. As I got closer I saw that it was in the process of construction. I appeared to be a couple of weeks too early but I stopped and had a chat with the carpenters. I asked how to continue on the Lycian way then asked if there was anywhere for çay. They pointed into the bushes opposite. On approaching I discovered a garden with meandering paths, many white irises in bloom, a restaurant and tables under trees in front. I gradually discovered that this was quite a large complex of restaurant, cabins and lodging house (shared showers etc) and have now booked myself in for two nights' stay.

I just spent dinner in the company of women (mostly) attending a Dance Workshop called Skinner Releasing. The first I met was Deepa, whom I recognised from seeing her visiting the archaeological site of Phaselis. This is her third visit from India to learn this dance technique here at.. Next year they will be in Istanbul. I also met Mary-Claire (who is leading the workshop) Candida (English), Julia (Australin/Swedish) and Denise (Turkish) and enjoyed their company and conversation. The meal was good too with a grand array of interesting starters.

I walked back to my cabin, the path lit by lanterns but also by a full moon, which also illuminates snow on the peak of Tahtali Dag.

I have had an unfairly easy day, with this delightful place to stay at the end, and feel really spoiled, but it was perhaps good for me to give my feet a break, will one little toe threatening a blister.

I am (just) keeping up with the wear-one-wash-one- one-in-reserve clothing regime. Food has been OK except I didn't get a proper lunch yesterday, no proper breakfast this morning and a bag of crisps for lunch. Also I've been tending to stay up too late (how unlike me) writing and posting the blog, delaying my departure and compromising walking time.

I'm getting a sandwich made up for tomorrow and an early start, to get the Teleferic (cable car) up Mt Tahtali, the morning being a safer bet for a clear view. I will then descend and strike out for Roman Bridge and hike part of the way back here. That's the plan. Check for my next posting to see if it works out!

THANKS TO JODIE for your kind Water Aid donation!