Leg 3, Day 8; Olympos to Adrasan, Kemer Orchids and Çay at the Musa Pass

I spent a whole day exploring the ruins of Olympos last year so my contact with the ancient city this year was slight. It amounted to a brief study of the stonework of tombs of the necropolis; they had a crafty way of inserting a sliding slab across the small square opening and locking it in place with a block.

However here is a brief résumé

One of the six leading cities of Lycia on account of position controlling sea routes from Syria and Cyprus to Rome

Coins of the Lycian league bore images of Bellerophon and the Chimeara whose legend is specific to Olympos

Olympos defaulted from the League to form alliance with pirates of Side and Phaselis (see Lag 3, Day 5) and under Zenecites took to piracy.

78BC P. Servilius Vata, proconsul of Civilian defeated and razed the city to the ground. Pompey defeated pirates and Olympia was sold to new settlers.

AD129 Hadrian visits and commissions a new granary on S. bank.

Cult of Mithras introduced by the pirates was established in Olympos and persisted, by C2AD was widespread in Roman Empire especially in the army. Olympos converted to Christianity early, probably due to similarities with Mithraism, but Methodius, one if earliest bishops was persecuted by Diocletian. Methodius' successor Ioannus attended the council of Constantinople in 536.

Olympos abandoned but Genoese built defences at the mouth of the Göksu (Skywater) but these were abandoned in the 15th C when Ottoman fleet won command of the sea.

My walk began with a dodging and wheezing climb up past the ruins on the South bank, on a well-marked path but a narrow and rocky one. The path began to contour a wooded hillside with views across to the steep walls of rock on the North side of the gorge but continually heading south into a valley, and climbing towards its head. The path was shaded by a variety of trees but myrtle was among the most common.

A very short way up this valley I experienced an epiphany with the sight of an small orchid, just to one side of the path. I could see it was a bee-mimic and on closer inspection saw from the highly detailed apron with a confined irridescent  "graphic" that it was the Kemer orchid that I had recently read about.

The Kemer Orchid has become rare and is listed as endangered because its roots are sought after for their flavouring properties. The roots (and thereby the chances of recovery) are dug up and the juice extracted, called "salep" is used to flavour ice-cream and drinks. I imagine it has a flavour similar to vanilla. It is thought that 100 million roots are dug up annually throughout Turkey.

The path continued to rise with many reassuring cairns that walkers, generous with their time and creativity, have left as a further confirmation of the path. I sometimes think of them as effigies of little people, each one a phallus in the Freudian sense because "knowledge is power".

Eventually I came to an area littered with the remains of many fallen trees. These seemed to be the casualties of a fire some years ago. The land between is recovering, with shrubs and new pines growing. It is thought the fire may have been the result of lightening strike as this is far from any habitation. Gradually the pines began to reduce in number and height and a broad swathe of grass came into view. It seemed I was approaching a blind summit and my hopes were confirmed that I had reached the pass when the land was revealed, falling away to the south with views far down the coast, to Adrasan and Gelidonia beyond.

The other great treat was the near presence of a Çay vendor. For some years now an enterprising pair of shepherds have been supplementing my their income  making tea for passing walkers. I was a willing customer. I approached their tattered polythene tent, tethered to a spreading tree just off the well-worn path. Unrecognised Patrick a young German on holiday from Istanbul where he has been living for 5 years (and has learned the language). I introduced myself and learned the names of my hosts; Ramazzan and Girber.

With Patric's help I learned that Girber is known as an amateur antiquarian - always having a little dig around his pastures in the hope of finding treasures. He may well find something significant one day, as the Romans built a garrison right up near the pass. It was interesting to discover that he is the same age as me, 60. I think my looks are better preserved but he said he can make the journey "down below" in one hour, and back up in one and a half! Going down took me 2 1/2.

The journey down to Adrasan was very interesting to me. When I attempted to walk from Adrasan to Olympos last year I must have missed a turning as I ended up following tractor tracks that did knot lead up to the pass, though they led round to the Olympos Gorge anyway. I blame the two dogs that accompanied me then. They seemed to know where they were going..

A very comfortable broad path led down the gentler slopes of the mountain (Musa Dag) for a good long way. Then, at a point where the track took a turn to the left a smaller G2 path was indicated off to the right. It followed the side of a valley, at times with a steep drop to the left at the bottom of which I could hear and sometimes see running water. At one point these made a deep pool which would have made a perfect place for a cooling dip on a hot day. Finally the path emerged from under forest and joined tracks that ran alongside the stream that I remembered from last year. I must have missed the turn-off at this point! Led astray by two strays! This broad stream, lined with reeds and with the ubiquitous sound of frogs croaking was now to my right as I walked towards Adrasan Bay.

I came to the spot where I had used stepping stones to cross the stream beside a ford but either the water was higher or the stones gone.. or both, so I continued on the track, knowing that some properties had bridges across to the main road that ran parallel at the other side of the creek. I discovered a whole district of Adrasan that I would not have otherwise, and found my "dry" crossing as well. Within half an hour I had walked to  the other end of Adrasan beach and homed in on the Ali Kaptan bungalow hotel where I stayed last year - and where I was welcomed like a long-lost friend!